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EBC Brakes Bluestuff NDX Race Brake Pads Front - 2022+ WRX

SKU: EBC DP52330NDX

Starting at $11/mo with . See if you qualify

Does not fit the 2024 WRX TR

The EBC Bluestuff NDX Full Race Brake Pads are definitely a track oriented pad designed to provide optimal braking performance in high-speed and track only conditions. This brake pad features a high friction race material that can be suitable for aggressive street driving, however, they work really great on aftermarket style calipers or modern style calipers with multi-piston systems with a better release and cooling for larger . . . Show More >


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R
02/09/2025
Robert
United States
I recommend this product

Very Good

Good during my testing and burn-in. Haven't tracked them, yet. # The good * cost: compared to G-LOC, Carbotech, and Hawk, these are 1/2 the price, so I figured why not * Fitment: They fit exactly as OEM. Spot on backing plates. * They definitely stop better than OEM. 100-0 stops X 15 in a row no problem # The not so good * Overall seating and bed-in is typical EBC: Not what I like about them. Too complicated, etc. EBC should pre-burnish the pads. G-LOC and Carbotech both can be ordered pre-burnished * Seating: The EBC recommendation is ridiculous. drive for 100-200 miles bla bla bla. If interested read below on how I did it. * Bed-in: This is OK, but also too complicated. So, I made it easier. * The shims are OK, but for the outside pads, you will want to use OEM shim because the EBC shim isn't big enough for the entire caliper feet/arms to push on the shim. * Cool Down: EBC direction for these pads is conflicting and they contradict themselves numerous times in the procedure recs. They expect you to "Best" scenario let the car sit over night to cool down. Now IDK about you, but I've never needed to have performance pads sit in the driveway for like 12 hours before ready to use. # What I did: Mind you, I had to keep getting out and measuring temps and checking for proper seating. So, I'll spare you the time of doing that. Below is what I did totally. * Bare in mind that it's 35F degrees out during this process. Summer would be much easier. * What NOT to do: Tried riding the brakes method (EBC recommendation), but the ECU then cuts power, so I don't recommend you doing that. * Drove 25 miles total to seat them to the new rotors. 40-20 X 15, then 50-30 X 15, then 60-30 X 15, then 60-20 X 15. Then they were seated. * Went to the Turnpike: 1rst tried 80-30 X 8. Not hot enough. Then, again. Still not hot enough. Then again, but 30% pressure, got rotors to 400 F, pads 200F. So I did 85-30 X 12 at 50% brake pressure = rotors about 650 F and pads starting to smoke volatiles off. F pads 350 F, R pads 300 F. So I did 90-30 about 60% brake pressure X 10, and finally smoking hot, rotors about 750 F and F pads 425 R pads 380F. * Then drove 15 minutes at 50 mph non-stop, Then .. * 90-30 X 10 at 70% brake = hot. rotors about 700F, F pads 300F, R about 300F. * Then, again 90-30, then immediately 95-20 X 8, then 100-20 X 6-8 = proper burn-in, couldn't smell much more volatiles, so I knew they were burnished. I did NOT STOP during this last run. * Drove 20 min. at 50mph to cool off = F pads 80F R 60F, F rotors 100F, R about 80F. * parked it. waited for 1.5 hours before driving. all rotors and pads down to 40F



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